Introduction

If you’ve ever compared treadmills online, you’ve seen motor specs thrown around like they’re the whole story: “3.5 HP!” “4.0 HP peak!” “2.75 CHP!” And somehow, two treadmills with similar numbers can feel totally different once you actually run. 

This guide will make treadmill motor power simple—especially for home buyers in the UAE—so you can confidently choose a treadmill like Nordic track that feels smooth, doesn’t struggle under your workouts, and lasts longer. 

You’ll learn: 

• What HP vs CHP really means (and why “peak HP” is often marketing) 

• How much motor power you actually need for walking, jogging, running, and intervals 

• How factors like bodyweight, incline, duration, and speed changes multiply motor demand 

• How to read listings without getting tricked 

1) What HP, CHP, and “peak power” actually mean 

HP (Horsepower) 

HP is a unit of power. In treadmill listings, “HP” can mean different things depending on how the brand reports it. 

CHP (Continuous Horsepower) 

CHP is meant to represent the motor’s power it can sustain continuously over time, not just for a brief moment. 

In real-world treadmill shopping, CHP is usually more useful than “HP” because treadmill workouts are continuous loads (especially running). 

Peak HP (the common marketing number) 

“Peak HP” is typically the highest short burst the motor can hit under ideal conditions. It’s not what the treadmill will comfortably deliver for a full workout. 

Simple takeaway: 
If a treadmill only advertises “peak HP” loudly and hides CHP or continuous ratings, treat the number as less reliable for comparing models. 

 

2) Why continuous power matters more than peak (especially for running) 

A treadmill motor doesn’t just need to “reach” a speed—it needs to hold that speed while: 

• your foot strikes repeatedly 

• your bodyweight loads the belt 

• you change pace 

• you add incline 

• you run for 30–90+ minutes 

That’s why continuous performance is the real experience. 

What an underpowered treadmill feels like 

Even if it technically reaches your target speed, it may feel: 

• slightly laggy when you step harder 

• noisier under load 

• less smooth at higher speed 

• more prone to belt slip sensations (or a “dragging” feel) 

What an appropriately powered treadmill feels like 

• speed feels consistent 

• belt feels smooth underfoot 

• motor sounds “calm,” not strained 

• incline changes don’t feel like the treadmill is struggling 

Bottom line: 
Peak power sells treadmills. Continuous power keeps runners happy. 

3) DC vs AC motors (and what most home buyers will see) 

You’ll sometimes see treadmills described as DC motor or AC motor. 

DC motors (common in home treadmills) 

Pros: 

• usually quieter at low to moderate speeds 

• typically more energy-efficient for home use 

• great for walking/jogging and general running if well-designed 

Cons: 

• very high mileage runners can push cheaper DC systems harder over time 

AC motors (more common in commercial settings) 

Pros: 

• built for long duty cycles (many hours/day) 

• handles frequent, heavy usage well 

Cons: 

• often more expensive 

• can be louder (varies a lot) 

• not always necessary for typical home usage 

Practical advice: 
For most home buyers, you don’t need to chase AC motors. You need a treadmill designed for your usage level with solid continuous performance, a stable frame, and good support. 

 

4) How much motor power do you really need? (match it to YOU) 

There isn’t one perfect number because motor demand depends on: 

• your weight 

• your speed 

• your session length 

• incline use 

• how often you train 

But you can use motor power ranges as a smart starting point. 

A useful “good enough” starting guide 

• Walking (daily steps, incline walking): ~2.0 CHP and up 

• Jogging / light running (a few times/week): ~2.5 CHP and up 

• Regular running (3–6x/week): ~3.0 CHP and up 

• Heavier users / frequent running / intervals: ~3.5 CHP and up 

This is not a law—just a practical way to avoid underbuying. 

Why weight changes the decision 

More weight = more load on the belt = more work for the motor to keep speed stable. 

If you’re near the upper end of a treadmill’s user capacity, it’s wise to: 

• choose higher continuous motor rating 

• prioritize stability and durability components 

• avoid compact “walking-first” designs if you plan to run 

Why frequency matters 

A treadmill used: 

• 2x/week can survive more compromises 

• 5–6x/week needs stronger continuous performance and better build quality 

 

5) Incline, speed changes, and intervals: the hidden multipliers 

A treadmill motor works harder when you add conditions that increase resistance or demand quick changes. 

Incline increases motor load 

Incline adds resistance. Even if you lower the speed, incline walking can still require serious motor work—especially with heavier users. 

Intervals stress the motor differently than steady runs 

Intervals aren’t just “fast.” They include: 

• repeated accelerations 

• repeated belt load changes 

• frequent speed changes 

That’s why someone who does HIIT 3x/week may need a stronger setup than someone who does steady jogging at the same peak speed. 

Short but intense can be tougher than long and easy 

A long easy jog demands endurance. 
A HIIT session demands responsiveness and repeat performance. 

If intervals are part of your plan, prioritize: 

• stronger continuous motor performance 

• stable deck at speed 

• easy speed controls (quick keys) 

 

6) Signs the motor is underpowered (or the treadmill is a mismatch) 

Underpowered / struggling signs 

• belt feels like it hesitates when you land 

• speed feels inconsistent underfoot 

• motor sound becomes harsh at moderate pace 

• the treadmill feels “fine” walking but unpleasant jogging 

• frequent overheating, slowing, or unexplained shutoffs (after proper setup) 

Overkill signs (you may be overspending) 

• you only walk casually 2–3x/week 

• you never use incline 

• you don’t plan to jog/run 

• you want quiet and compact above all else 

Overkill isn’t “bad”—it can mean a smoother experience and longer life—but you might be paying for capability you’ll never use. 

 

7) Motor power vs deck size vs frame stability: what really creates a “good running feel” 

This is important: motor power alone does not guarantee a good running treadmill. 

A treadmill can have a decent motor number and still feel bad because of: 

• short belt length (cramped stride) 

• narrow belt width (less confidence) 

• wobbly frame (unstable at speed) 

• poor rollers/belt tracking (rough feel) 

• uncomfortable deck stiffness 

Think of performance as a system 

• Motor = holds speed under load 

• Deck + belt size = comfort and stride freedom 

• Frame = stability and confidence 

• Rollers/belt tracking = smoothness and noise 

• Cushioning = joint comfort 

If you’re buying for running, you need the whole system to support running—not just a big motor number. 

 

8) UAE apartment reality: noise, heat, and power setup considerations 

Motor choice affects noise, but setup and environment matter too. 

Noise: the biggest apartment complaint 

Noise comes from: 

• motor hum 

• belt friction 

• footstrike impact 

• vibration transfer through the floor 

To reduce it: 

• use a thick treadmill mat 

• level the treadmill (no rocking) 

• keep belt aligned and maintained 

• consider incline walking over high-speed running if neighbors are sensitive 

Heat and ventilation 

Running indoors in UAE climate can feel intense. More heat can mean: 

• you feel uncomfortable faster 

• electronics and motors run warmer 

Make it easier: 

• add a fan 

• ensure airflow around the treadmill 

• avoid cramped corners where heat builds up 

Power setup (simple but important) 

• Avoid cheap extension cords. 

• Use proper electrical setup recommended by the seller/manual. 

• If you live in a building with inconsistent voltage, ask your seller what they recommend for protection (this varies by product and home situation). 

 

9) How to shop treadmill motor specs without getting tricked 

Here’s a quick spec-sheet checklist that protects you from marketing traps. 

Look for these details (when available) 

• CHP / continuous rating (or at least transparency about motor type/performance) 

• User weight capacity (use it as a durability signal, not just a limit) 

• Intended use positioning (“walking treadmill” vs “runner treadmill”) 

• Deck size (especially if you run) 

• Warranty coverage (motor warranty matters) 

Be cautious when you see: 

• only “peak HP” in huge text 

• no mention of continuous rating or duty cycle 

• very compact treadmill claiming “serious running” with tiny deck specs 

• vague descriptions with no build details 

Smart buying rule 

If two treadmills cost similar amounts, choose the one with: 

• better stability reputation/build 

• clearer motor performance reporting 

• better warranty/support 

That combination usually wins long-term. 

 

10) Maintenance habits that protect your motor (especially in dusty climates) 

Motor life is strongly affected by how smoothly the belt/deck system runs. 

The simple routine that keeps treadmills running well 

• Wipe down after workouts (sweat and dust add up) 

• Keep the surrounding area clean (dust is real in UAE) 

• Follow the brand’s lubrication schedule (too dry increases friction) 

• Keep the belt aligned (misalignment increases friction and noise) 

• Don’t ignore new noises—small issues become big wear 

Why this matters for motor performance 

When friction increases, the motor works harder to move the belt. That means: 

• more heat 

• more strain 

• more wear over time 

A treadmill with “enough motor” can still feel bad if the belt system is neglected. 

 

FAQs  

1) What’s the difference between HP and CHP on treadmills? 
HP is a general power unit; CHP refers to power the motor can sustain continuously. For real workouts, CHP is usually the more useful comparison. 

2) Is “peak HP” reliable? 
Not by itself. Peak HP is often a short-burst number used in marketing. It doesn’t always reflect how the treadmill performs during long runs. 

3) How much CHP do I need for walking? 
For most people, around 2.0 CHP and up is a comfortable starting point for regular walking and incline walking, depending on bodyweight and usage frequency. 

4) How much motor power do I need for running? 
Many regular runners look around 3.0 CHP and up, and heavier users or interval runners often benefit from 3.5 CHP and up. Always match it to your weight and how often you’ll run. 

5) Does incline increase motor demand? 
Yes. Incline increases resistance and makes the motor work harder, especially during longer sessions or with heavier users. 

6) Why does one treadmill feel smoother than another with similar motor numbers? 
Because running feel depends on the full system: frame stability, deck/belt size, rollers, cushioning, and belt tracking—motor is only one part. 

7) How can I help my treadmill motor last longer in the UAE? 
Keep dust under control, wipe down after workouts, follow lubrication guidance, and maintain belt alignment. Reduced friction = reduced motor strain. 

 

Conclusion  

Motor power is important—but it’s easy to misunderstand. The spec that matters most for real workouts is continuous performance (often shown as CHP), because that’s what keeps your treadmill smooth under your bodyweight, your incline, and your running sessions. As a practical guide: walkers can usually start around 2.0 CHP, joggers around 2.5 CHP, and runners around 3.0 CHP, with heavier users or interval training often benefiting from 3.5 CHP+. But don’t buy on motor numbers alone—pair the right motor with a stable frame, runner-friendly belt size, and good maintenance habits, especially in UAE conditions where dust and indoor heat can add strain over time.